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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.