Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
